Thursday, December 29, 2011

Getting Your Pond Ready For Winter

!: Getting Your Pond Ready For Winter

Fall Cleanup in Your Pond

The calendar says it Fall now and I have to agree. The days are getting shorter and nights colder. So today I decided it was time to get the pond winterized. I put on my rubber wader suit and joined the fishes in my little pond. I pulled up the water lilies and trimmed off all the long stalks and spent flowers. I left the smaller leaves that were just emerging from the plant so not to put the plant into total shock and those leaves will still synthesize oxygen and carbon dioxide for the plant as it shuts down for winter. Then I dropped those plant containers in the deepest part of my pond for the winter. I also removed all the floating plants and they will be composted on my strawberry plant beds to add nutrients to the soil.

The floaties (ducks, frog and turtle) were removed and will be stored away till next year. Lastly, I added some "good" bacteria product back into the pond. The bacteria will help decompose the plant material in the bottom of the pond and also the fish waste. It also reduces ammonia and nitrates which of course, are harmful to your fish! This is a very important step both in spring and in the fall.

Remember, you want to leave your pumps running all winter. Your fish still need oxygen and circulation. I have a 350 gph submersible pond at the far end of my pond that flows through my UV light, through my bog garden which acts as my biological filter, and dumps back into the pond in the opposite corner. This way I know I have total water circulation throughout my pond. I also have a small external air pump that bubbles air into the deepest part of my pond through an air stone. This insures that the fish will be adequately oxygenated through the cold winter months when they are down in that section and not moving around. Their metabolism slows down as the water gets colder and they go into a semi-dormant state.

Speaking of fish, have you taken your pond's temperature lately? Seriously..... once the water temperature dips below 50F, stop feeding your fish commercial high protein fish food. I know, just like small children, they want to be feed constantly, but their digestive systems shut down in colder water and they can't digest properly. You can kill them if you continue to feed them! If you can't take it, you could toss in some green peas. Fish love them and since they are mainly carbs, no harm will come to your fish. It's the high protein in fish food that that they can't process properly in the colder winter months. Chances are they will naturally disappear to the bottom of the pond and you can rest easy. In the spring, again, feeding them high protein fish food is temperature dependent. Remember, 50F is the magic number.

Lastly, I cover my small pond with some netting as we live in an area where herons routinely fly over and the fish have lost their natural cover of the lily leaves. Protection is key when natural cover has died back or been eliminated.

Thanks for reading and I will author more pond info in the spring, only six months from now!


Getting Your Pond Ready For Winter

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Friday, December 16, 2011

Skimming Off the Top - Profits From Inferior Skimmers

!: Skimming Off the Top - Profits From Inferior Skimmers

Trading Reliability, Simplicity and Effectiveness For Skimmer Profits

Tom Barthel's article, "Pulling the Envelope," in the May 2007 issue of Water Garden News, has got me going. In it he said, "Technological innovations for skimmers and filter-fall products have leveled off recently. On the rise, instead, are units that use creative features and meet the customer's need for low maintenance, durable products sold at competitive prices."

He is confirming the truth about what I have been preaching for over ten years. The true reason that sales of liner skimmers and fall-filters have leveled off is because their poor performance is coming back to "bite" the skimmer scammers in the bottom line! These skimmers are designed for making profits, not filtering ponds.

The so-called pond experts operate like the pharmaceutical industry. They advise consumers on the so-called benefits of the very products they produce and sell, in this case skimmers. Drug companies sell products which generally mask the actual symptoms of a disease and in the process mess up the body's balance even more. This creates yet a new need for another drug to mask yet another symptom.

If the skimmer's engineering and design is not effective in providing the proper filtration of water, it will not only require regular cleaning, but will demand another "drug" or band-aid. Hence, yet another innovation sweeps the planet, and this engineering marvel is designed to solve yet another water garden ailment. Some of the "drugs" used to treat ineffective filters are what I call the "flim-flam filter falls," the "bio-balls filter falls," the "ooh-la-la cha-ching cha-ching filter falls".

These are some of the sales pitches you might hear from the purveyors of miracle potions for your ailing water garden: "Oh you poor thing, your pond is turning green, your water has body odor. ( the fish are exhibiting an evolutional behavior, by trying to leave the water and live on land.) Here, we just happen to have something for those two symptom. It's called 'Green Be Gone', only a pint and we recommend you buy a gallon. Then, add three bottles of our 'fish safe' (we're not sure about the turtles) and plant-safe, 'Stink Be Gone.' So that your fish will go back in the water where they belong, we recommend our very own private label, 'Home Sweet Home pH Up.' And if that does not work, for another per pint, try our 'Home Sweet Home pH Down.'

Oh, and I have some bad news for you. My technician just got back from your house call and discovered that your leaky pond is from a big fat rat that chewed a hole in it. Sorry, our warranty does not cover that, only factory defects."

This is why the liner pond experts recommend covering the bottom of your pond and the catch basin of your pondless waterfall with rocks. It is to give you added surface area for the nitrifying bacteria to grow which is not provided by the cheaply produced, expensive to buy, state-of-the-art, Berkeley-designed, MIT-engineered, Rubber Maid approved, maintenance-laden, grotesque profit-making, scum-sucking skimmers and fall-flushing plastic wonder devices!

I don't claim to be political, but I do claim to be correct. Why? Because "a man with experience is not at the mercy of a man with an argument." After building more than 1,900 concrete ponds and waterfalls over 26 years with no cracks or leaks, my experience speaks for itself. I have always wondered why I have no competition in the area of professional concrete ponds and waterfalls. The answer is simple: everyone is using liners. Why? Because they are cheaper? No! It's because the liner industry has spent millions in advertising that they are cheaper.

They never mention all the negative aspects of liner construction, such as rodents, tree roots, sharp objects, the weight of the rocks, etc., that can puncture holes and cause leaks. Let's compare the cost differences in construction and long-term maintenance of both concrete and liner ponds.

Let's look at the facts, rather than water garden hype, liner industry tent revival terminology, and biased opinions from the liner messiah's disciples, the tinker-toy skimmer and filter salesmen. To be fair with my comparison, I'm not going to use the pond liner "messiah' Aquasacape as my example, even though everyone knows they are truly the "Microsoft" of the liner industry.

I'm going to use someone who claims to be the best in the industry. Proof of this fact is that he suggests you google "Pondless" and you will find him at the top of the first page. He also states' "My skimmers, filters and pumps are the best in the entire water garden industry." His statements are now in the public domain since they can be found on his website.

So let's use Russell Water Gardens for our comparisons between two ponds: one built with a rubber liner and the other constructed professionally with concrete, rebar and highly efficient, quality equipment.

I. Pond 12' x 14' x 4.5' deep (no rocks)

Russell Water Garden's equipment and materials pricing:

1. 25' x 27' liner (required for a pond 12' x 14' x 4.5') 5

2. 25' x 27' underlayment material 5

3. Hydro Centrimax HC-050 4,500 gph, 6.5 amp, 2 yr. warranty (Russell's own pump) 0

4. Hydroclean "Piper" skimmer (Russell's own) 0

5. Dolphin Hydro Vortex filter (Russell's own) 0

6. 100 ft. 2" flex PVC pipe 0

7. 80-watt UV light 4

8. 10 20-watt underwater lights 0

TOTAL (with everything still in the box) $ 5,014

II. Professional Concrete Pond

Pricing of materials available to contractors and/or homeowners, including labor:

1. 5 yards concrete (3500-7000 psi) with stealth fiber 5

2. 426 sq. ft. rebar (8-10" on center @ per sq. ft. including materials & labor 2

3. Concrete pumper - 5 yards (ranges from 5-200) 0

4. Concrete labor (3 men @ /hr. x 3 hrs) 5

5. 3 bags Thoroseal plus labor 0

6. Sequence pump (#5800SEQ23 w/leaf basket; 5800 gph, 3.1 amps, 3 yr. warranty) 3

7. Aqua Ultraviolet Ultima II 4000 filter 5

8. 100 ft. of 2" flex PVC piping 3

9. Emperor Aquatics 80-watt UV light with wiper 9

10. Skimmer (professional concrete/gunite pond, with low water valve waterway Renegade) $ 87

11. 10 20-watt underwater lights - Alpine 0

TOTAL cost of Material and Labor (project completed) $ 4,329

So far, I have shown a difference between the costs of two types of ponds, except for the important fact that labor is not included in the first example and it is included in the second. Now for some information on construction methods and pumps.

1. Construction Method

Liner: These manufacturers only provide warranty against factory defect, not from heavy sharp rocks, gnawing mice, rats, ground squirrels, gophers, chipmunks, groundhogs, tree roots, sharp objects, animal claws such as raccoons, dogs, etc. Concrete (3500 - 7000 psi rebar with stealth fiber): When constructed professionally, concrete ponds and waterfalls can carry a lifetime warranty, something that no liner can do.

2. Pumps:

Most liner ponds use sump pumps, which use 50 to 60% more energy than a high-efficiency centrifugal pump, and which carry an inferior warranty. In the previous comparison, the Sequence pump costs 35% less than Russell's, and it pumps 25% more water per hour for 1/3 less the energy and with 1/3 longer warranty than Russell's pump. In six years, if you had to replace Russell's pump every two years (the length of the warranty), the cost of the pumps plus electricity would be: ,950 (3 pumps) + ,853 (energy cost using it 24 hrs. a day, 7 days a week for 6 years) = ,803. On the other hand, with the Sequence 5800SEQ23 pump, there is a 3-year warranty; over 6 years the pump cost would be 6 (2 pumps) + ,314 (energy cost @ 24 hrs./day, 7 days a week, 6 yrs.) = ,160.

So the total cost of energy for the Hydro Centrimax pump plus the warranty replacement cost over six years is a whopping ,643 more than that of the Sequence pump!

NOTE: Russell's website publishes the following statement: "You will find that Hydro CentrimaxTM pumps are the best value of any centrifugal pump on the market today."

Russell also boasts about his skimmer being the best. Twenty dollars worth of plastic that he sells for 0 - let's see if they really are the best.

Here are his instructions for cleaning his "HydroClean Pond Skimmer:

1. "Lift the lid off the skimmer and take out the skimmer net at the front."

2. "Shake the skimmer net to get rid of any debris." [Try not to get any on you.]

3. "If there is any algae on the skimmer net, hose it off as needed."

4. "Replace the skimmer net in front of the skimmer unit."

5. "Behind the net there is a brush rack, a bar with large brushes hanging from it. Pick up the brush rack and shake it to get the debris off." [Be sure not to splatter any of the pond scum, fish waste, worms and parasites on yourself.]

6. "Replace the brush rack in the skimmer behind the skimmer net." [Be sure to wash your hands very thoroughly when you are finished.]

7. "Failure to clean the skimmer can lead to slow water flow and place stress on the pump. It can even cause the pump to overheat and burn out. Check the skimmer often to see if it needs maintenance."

Now, let's compare Russell's 0 maintenance-intensive, messy skimmer with the Waterways Renegade professional concrete pond skimmer at only .

Here are the maintenance instructions:

"Lift the lid, remove the basket, dump debris, replace basket, close lid. No need to check skimmer often. If the basket gets full, the pump will not be affected, even if the water level in the pond drops below the skimmer opening. This skimmer has a special float valve system that by-passes the skimmer in the event of neglect or low water level."

Russell's biofilter is very similar to his skimmer in design. While it is basically a molded tub, Russell claims his "Hydro Vortex" filter supports a higher number of fish than other brands of biological filters. Even though, there are several manufacturers of biological filters that can easily out-perform this simple elementary and cheap design. It is the same as comparing an economy car to a high performance luxury model.

Only in this case, you are comparing an economy filter with a state-of-the-art, high performance, engineered, no maintenance (a simple turn of a handle to clean it) filter for only more.

Bottom line I repeat: "A man with experience is not at the mercy of a man with an argument." The pond I described is my pond.

I have the Sequence pump, Aqua Ultraviolet filter and UV light, anti-vortex drains, professional skimmer, and four times more fish than the so-called experts say I should have. My pond is crystal clear, my fish are healthy, and I have not lost one of them to disease in the four years I've had them. The only chemical that I have ever recommended to any of my 2,000+ clients in their professionally constructed concrete pond is rock salt, which controls the algae and aids in the slime coat of the fish.


Skimming Off the Top - Profits From Inferior Skimmers

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Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Danner 20360 5100 GPH High Head Pond Skimmer Pump 30-Foot Shut Off

!: Save Danner 20360 5100 GPH High Head Pond Skimmer Pump 30-Foot Shut Off Buy Now


Rate : | Price : $250.63 | Post Date : Dec 08, 2011 00:39:37
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The Proline Skimmer pump with Hy-Drive technology is a continuous duty pump designed for use inside a pond skimmer to move large volumes of water silently and efficiently through filtration systems, a waterfall, stream or fountain. It's compact size allows it to fit in virtually any skimmer. Maximum flow rate - 5,100gph. Maximum pumping height - 30ft. Current is 3.6A/439 Watts. 2-Year Manufacturer Warranty

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Monday, November 21, 2011

What is the Difference Between an External Pond Pump and a Submersible Pond Pump?

!: What is the Difference Between an External Pond Pump and a Submersible Pond Pump?

A person just getting into ponds may be confused at the terminology and types of pond pumps, particularly when trying to determine the type of pump they need for their pond. The most common questions is "What is the difference between an external pond pump and a submersible pond pump?"

The easiest and most simplified answer is to say that one is used outside of the pond (external) and the other is used inside of the pond (submersible). However this really does not fully answer the question.

It is true that an external pond pump is placed on dry ground outside of the pond, but there are other things to note about an external pump. External pond pumps. are going to be best for larger ponds due to the fact that they are more energy efficient and are capable of moving larger volumes of water. Usually ponds over a couple of thousands of gallons will benefit more from an external pump or ponds with larger water features may also need a larger external pump due to the distance that the water is going to travel to supply water to the water feature as in the case of a large waterfall. It is also important to note that some external pumps may also need to be hardwired and are not simply "plug and play" like the submersible units.

Speaking of submersible pond pumps Submersible pumps are going to be best used in small ponds or when powering smaller water features or equipment like a small filter. Submersible pond pumps are very easy to install. Basically they are placed in a desired location in the pond and plugged in and that is it. Furthermore, many submersible pumps come with fountain and spray attachments so that they can easily be utilized as a small fountain feature.

Remember to effectively choose the correct pond pump for your pond, pay attention to the gallons per hour (gph) that the pump move and select the pump that will move the entire volume of water at least once in an hour. So a 5000 gallon pond will most likely need an external pond pump with a rated GPH of at least 5000.


What is the Difference Between an External Pond Pump and a Submersible Pond Pump?

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Monday, November 14, 2011

Choose the Right Oil Skimmer For Cost-Effective Oil-Water Separation

!: Choose the Right Oil Skimmer For Cost-Effective Oil-Water Separation

Step One: Understand the Basics. First, understand that while designs vary, all oil skimmers rely on the fluid properties of specific gravity and surface tension. Most use a moving medium to remove floating oil from the fluid's surface (the exception is a floating suction skimmer). Floating oil and grease cling to skimming media more readily than water. This allows media in the shape of a belt, disk, drum, etc. to pass through the fluid surface and pick up floating oil and grease while rejecting most of the water. The oily material is subsequently removed from the media with wiper blades or pinch rollers.

In addition, realize that the kind of water contaminant being removed affects the kind of skimmer you should choose. For example, grease skimming involves higher viscosity hydrocarbons. In that case, an oil skimmer must be operated at temperatures high enough to keep the grease fluid. This may require heating elements in the fluid reservoir and skimmer unit to keep the grease in a liquid state for easier pick-up and discharge. If floating grease forms into solid clumps or mats in the reservoir, a spray bar, aerator or other mechanical apparatus can be used to break up the grease and facilitate skimming.

Finally, recognize the power of a skimmer. Often oil skimming by itself can achieve the desired level of water purity. In more demanding situations, skimming is a cost-effective means of removing most of the oil before using more complicated and costly treatments, such as coalescers, membrane filters and chemical processes. This is often the case in bioremediation of groundwater, where an oil skimmer is used as a first step to remove most of the oil that's contaminating the water.

Step Two: Make Sure You Have a Suitable Application. When properly selected and applied, oil skimmers are highly economical solutions for separating oil from water to allow their reclamation and reuse or safe disposal. However, there are certain applications that are more suitable than others, which allow skimmers to achieve optimum results. Typical applications best suited for oil skimmers encompass:

· Wastewater sumps where removing floating hydrocarbons can reduce the cost of disposal and lower the contingent liabilities of wastewater discharge.

· Coolants and cutting fluids where skimming tramp oils extends coolant life, improves the quality of machined parts, reduces irritating smoke that forms during machining, lessens the chance of dermatitis and helps prevent the fluid from developing a "rotten egg" odor.

· Heat treating operations where trench oils must be removed from heat-treated parts, and can be captured with a skimmer for reuse or disposal. This reduces oil purchases, prolongs wash water life and lowers disposal costs.

· Parts washers where removing floating oils from a wash tank prevents re-contamination of the parts as they are removed from the fluid and extends fluid life.

· Food processing facilities where the removal of vegetable oils, greases and animal fats from a plant's wastewater stream reduces processing and disposal costs.

· Parking lots, garages and service facilities where waste oil from leaks, spills and other sources must be retrieved from sumps before water can be discharged to storm or sanitary sewers.

· Outdoor ponds, lakes and basins where floating oils are present, skimmers provide inexpensive and effective removal, solving a serious environmental problem.

· Oil recovery/monitoring wells where a belt skimmer can be used instead of a down well pump to remove oil, fuel and other hydrocarbon fluids. Generally, this is more cost-effective and reduces maintenance headaches. Skimmers can reach depths of 200 feet or more and remove floating hydrocarbon products despite fluctuating water tables.

· Remediation processes where skimmers can be used effectively in tandem with other types of separators, or additional technologies to reduce the overall cost and time required for cleanup. For example, after removing most of the oil with a skimmer, biological agents can be used to remove the remaining water contaminants.

Step Three: Match the Oil Skimmer Design to Application Characteristics. There are several types of industrial oil skimmers. Choosing one best suited for your application will maximize oil removal while minimizing capital outlay and skimmer operating costs. Pay particular attention to the following oil skimmer/application characteristics:

· Operating conditions - The performance and life of the pick-up medium, wiper blades, pulleys, etc. are affected by operating conditions. These include temperatures in and out of the liquid, the pH of the solution and the presence of solvents or other reactive chemicals. The oil skimmer and its components must be designed for these operating variables.

· Hazardous materials - Applications involving flammable materials or explosive vapors require the use of explosion-proof (or air-driven) motors and controls.

· Temperature/Viscosity - All oil skimmers require floating hydrocarbon material to be in a liquid, free-flowing state. (An exception to the floating oil caveat is dense non-aqueous phase liquids, which can be skimmed when a polymer belt skimmer medium is used to reach to the bottom of a tank where the contaminant has settled.) If floating oil or grease congeals or solidifies at ambient temperatures, the reservoir and/or skimmer will require heaters to maintain fluid flow.

· Removal Rate - Oil skimmer removal rates, expressed in gph, vary with oil viscosity. Typically, manufacturers rate skimmers using SAE 30 weight motor oil at 65°F (18°C). It's wise to ask for test data, especially if your application involves a much different viscosity. Your oil skimmer selection should be based on the maximum amount of oil to be removed within the shortest available time. (See Removal Rate Guidelines below.)

· Skimmed Water Content - All oil skimmers pick up some water with the oil; suction skimmers pick up more water than other types. High water content increases the cost to recycle or dispose of the oil. Generally, the ratio of water to oil decreases with thicker films of floating oil and slower moving pick-up media. A concentrator or decanter installed at the skimmer discharge port provides secondary oil/water separation that can reduce water content to nearly zero.

· Residual Oil - A skimmer removes oil as long as it is present. Depending on the oil influx rate and the oil skimmer's removal rate, residual oil in the water may be as low as a few parts per million. When further reduction is required, a secondary removal stage such as membrane filtration may be needed.

· Portability - In some plants, mobile equipment service shops, and remediation sites, a portable skimmer can sometimes service multiple machines, sumps, or wells.

· Tank or Sump Characteristics - The location, shape and capacity of a tank or water impoundment are major factors in choosing the right skimmer. Also consider fluctuations in water level, turbulence and possible emulsions. Although skimmers do not cause emulsions, they may have trouble removing certain types.

· Size/Design - Oil and water can emulsify when subjected to turbulence and other mechanical agitation. Avoid this by having water return to the tank below the liquid surface at as low a velocity as practical. Make sure the tank or sump provides quiet areas, weirs and sufficient volume to allow adequate time for oil/water separation.

· Shape - Tanks without nooks and crannies for oil to accumulate in are best. If you have an irregular shape, put the skimmer where the largest amount of oil accumulates. Consider a means of directing oil toward the skimmer such as a floating boom or baffle plate.

· Location/Installation - Questions to ask about the physical location and characteristics of the tank and collection container:
- Does skimmed material need to be pumped from the skimmer to the container?
- Will skimmer access for periodic maintenance be a problem?
- How much mounting space is available?
- Are tank or container modifications required? (Total skimmer system costs may involve additional components, tank modifications, and skimmer maintenance.)

Oil Skimmer Removal Rate Guidelines: Consider an example where the total oil influx is 200 gallons a day. The calculated average would be 200/24 = 8.3gph. However, if most of it comes during a single 8-hour plant shift, you probably need a removal rate three times that average, especially if you need to prevent the discharge of contaminated water to a sewer system. As a rule of thumb, specify approximately twice the maximum capacity you anticipate needing for normal conditions.

Part II of this article will cover different types of oil skimmers, their designs, and optional features.


Choose the Right Oil Skimmer For Cost-Effective Oil-Water Separation

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Tuesday, November 8, 2011

The Benefits Of Pressurized Pond Filtration

!: The Benefits Of Pressurized Pond Filtration

*Pressurized filter units can be conveniently positioned below the level of water delivery e.g. a waterfall. (Unlike overflow barrel filters or waterfall filters).

*Compact and discreet design, Can be partially buried in the ground for minimal visual impact.

*Large diameter inlet and outlet ports. Suitable for use with low pressure/wattage pumps.

*Hose connections are at the side of the unit, allowing supply and return pipes to be easily hidden.

*Versatile, multi stage (1/2", ¾", 1", 11/4") hosetails, to take all common sizes of hose.

*Servicing /maintenance can be carried out without having to disturb pipe work.

*Ready to use- all media and connections included.

*Complete and effective filtration with mechanical sponge filter and biological media. Much higher mechanical efficiency than overflow filters. Far superior to submerged filters such as Pond Master in that their capacity is higher and that a pressurized filter has a much lower tendency to clog.

*Easy to remove filter media bag, for easy cleaning,

*Canister design, incorporating unique filter bag, means alternative filter media can be used to suit user's specific requirements.

*Lid tool supplied ensures lid is quick and easy to remove, even with wet hands.

*All spare parts and replacement filter media are readily available.

*Multiple units can be linked together to increase filtration capacity.

I do not recommend pressurized pond filters with built in UV Sterilizers, as you can not control the flow rate to the optimum level (300-500 gph) for effective germicidal sterilization or algae control. A separate UV sterilizer is much more effective (based on my 27 years of pond maintenance).

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"A Clear Pond; Pond care, information and resources"


The Benefits Of Pressurized Pond Filtration

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Saturday, November 5, 2011

Aquarium Water Pumps - Essential to Aquatic Plant Success

!: Aquarium Water Pumps - Essential to Aquatic Plant Success

Water circulation is essential in any aquarium, to ensure proper filtration, prevent the formation of anoxic or low-temperature regions, and deliver nutrients to stationary organisms. Power heads and aerators often provide sufficient circulation for a basic aquarium. In a planted aquarium, however, the water surface should be left undisturbed as much as possible to prevent loss of precious carbon dioxide and such devices should not be used.

Water pumps provide the necessary circulation both within the tank and through the filtration system, without unnecessary gas exchange. In a typical planted aquarium, water flows passively to the pump from a submerged intake where it is then propelled through the filter(s), and returned to the tank through an outlet below the water surface. The function of a water pump in a planted aquarium is exactly the same as that of the heart in the human body: pumping water rather than blood through a filter instead of the kidneys and liver. This analogy underscores the critical importance of the water pump in sustaining the health of a planted aquarium.

Not surprisingly, there are several types of aquarium water pumps to choose from, suitable for different types of tanks and budgets (see our selection at Julie's Pet Market). While perhaps not a glamorous part of setting up a planted aquarium, the selection of a water pump is one of the most crucial tasks to ensure a successful experience. Several criteria should be considered.

1) Flow rate. Water pump flows are rated in gallons per hour (gph) under free-flow conditions. For example, a 100 gph pump will circulate all the water in a 50 gallon tank twice in an hour. The presence of a filter (and its condition) will reduce actual flow. It is important to pick a pump with sufficient flow to ensure proper filtration. Conversely, an excessive water flow will turn your tank into a chaotic whirlpool. Usually, the filter manufacturer will specify the minimum flow rate needed for the water pump. The selected pump should exceed the minimum flow rate, but be comparable to it

2) Durability. A water pump is one of the few devices with moving parts in an aquarium, and therefore subject to wear and tear. Some pumps (e.g. magnetic drive) are designed without internal seals that can become corroded. This is more important for saltwater tanks, but well worth considering for a planted aquarium.

3) Heat generation. The electric motor generates heat that is transmitted to the water. Too much heat may contribute to wear and tear and is undesirable when you need to keep water temperature below a certain level.

4) Power consumption. A pump operates continuously and along with lights it is one of the main contributors to the energy costs of a planted aquarium. Prefer pumps with lower energy demands to keep costs down.

5) Noise level. Unless the pump will operate fully immersed, noise from the water pump is not to be underestimated as a factor in the enjoyment of your planted aquarium. You can often find information on noise levels on the manufacturer's web site.

In general, you should select the best quality pump you can afford. There are fewer sources of headaches in an aquarium worse than a poor pump: noise, overheating, and leakages occurring at the least convenient time can send you scrambling for a replacement. Having to replace a faulty pump - even with another poor one - after just a few months of operation makes this choice a false economy. The selection of water pumps offered at Julie's Pet Market includes only quality products to avoid you such problems.


Aquarium Water Pumps - Essential to Aquatic Plant Success

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Thursday, October 27, 2011

Looking for a Pump for Your Pond?

!: Looking for a Pump for Your Pond?

Spring will be here soon, and many of you will either be looking for a pump for your pond, or be looking to replace a non-functional pump.

The pump is one of the most important features of a pond, because without a pump, there will not be any trickling or moving water, and you will effectively have a bog. If you choose the wrong pump, your water will either not flow the way you desire, or you may have insufficient flow to filter your water and/or feed your waterfall. Therefore, it is worth taking the time to choose the proper pump to suite your needs. The first question you should ask yourself is: "What functionalities do I require from my pump?" Are you using your pump to drive a waterfall? Do you have a statue? Or do you need a pump to circulate your water and drive a filter?

Many people require a pump merely to circulate and filter their water. It is recommended that you circulate your pond water at least once every 2 hours to ensure that mosquitoe larvae do not accumulate in stagnant water. Thus, you should measure the number of gallons in your pond and obtain a pump that pumps at least half that volume every hour (I.e. the gallons per hour rating, or GPH, should be 50% that of the pond volume). If your pump needs to feed a biological and/or mechanical filter (E.g. submersible, pressurized, and above-ground filters), make sure that you consult the manual for the filter to determine the minimal required water flow to run the filter.

You will need to increase your pump rating to accommodate both fish and waterfalls. Calculating the proper pump for waterfalls is a bit trickier, because waterfall pumps are rated by both GPH and maximum waterfall height. To estimate your waterfall's height, you must measure the vertical height from the top of your pump to the top of your waterfall or stream. In addition, you must add another foot of height or lift for every 10 feet of hosing you will be using (to account for loss of volume from hose resistance). The general rule of thumb is that each inch of width of the channel will require an extra 100 GPH. For example, if your stream or waterfall spillway will be 10 inches wide, you will need a pump that generates an additional 1000 GPH of flow at your waterfall's height. One affordable line of pumps that we recommend is the Algreen MaxFlo line of waterfall pumps. These pumps (rated at 2200 GPH and 3170 GPH) are powerful submersible units that can fit into any skimmer.

If you wish to feed water into a statue or fountain, you will need a smaller pump that has a large head (I.e. maximum pumping height), and preferably an adjustable flow control. The highest quality pumps that we have found are the SICCE magnet-driven statuary pumps. These pumps have a built in sponge filter, vibration-damping rubber pads that allow them to run in absolute silence, suction cups at the bottom to increase their stability, and variable flow-rate adjustment knobs. The SICCE statuary/fountain pumps vary from 60 GPH up to 468 GPH and can generate maximum heights of up to 7' and 4"". The various models in the SICCE line include the Extrema, Irda, Nova, Micra Plus, Micra, and the Mi-Mouse.

If you have multiple pond considerations, or you're not sure which pump to choose, you can always go with a multi-purpose pump. Magnet-driven multi-purpose pumps usually come with mechanical pre-filters to trap large debris, variable flow control, built-in fountain with various fountain heads, and diverter values to allow you to split your output flow into multiple devices (E.g. watercourses, statues, and larger external filters). Several examples of multi-purpose pumps include the Shott Nursery Pro, Algreen SuperFlo, and the Algreen UltraFlo.

Before you start building your pond, you should take the time to consider the many pump options available. Make sure you shop around to find the most affordable and the most effective pump to meet all of your requirements.


Looking for a Pump for Your Pond?

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Thursday, October 20, 2011

How to Choose a Pond Pump

!: How to Choose a Pond Pump

The pond pump is truly the "heart" of your pond. They are needed for a variety of functions - from general circulation to powering water features. The good news is there are a wide variety of pond pumps available from very reputable manufacturers. For just about any use, there will be multiple products available to choose from. The bad news is selecting the right pump for your needs can be a very daunting task. In this article we will provide you with a solid foundation to select the right pump for your pond application.

Types of Pond Pumps

Submersible Pumps: Submersible Pond Pumps are installed completely underwater, typically in the deepest part of the pond. This class of pump is generally suited for smaller ponds, or for water features requiring less that 4,000 GPH. The main benefit of a submersible pumps is that they are visually unobtrusive and run very quietly. They are also very easy to install, just make sure the cord length is sufficient for your needs. The downsides to a submersible pond pump is that they must be frequently removed from the pond for cleaning and maintenance. They also generally cost more to operate than an external pond pump, although there have been some significant improvements recently in submersible pump energy efficiency.

External Pumps: As their name implies, External Pond Pumps are designed to be installed outside of the pond, or "in-line". External pond pumps are a better choice for medium to larger ponds. They can handle greater water flows (4,000 to 10,000 GPH) and are less costly to operate. Other benefits of an external pump include ease of maintenance, longer average life, and the ability to replace parts as external pumps are not encased in resin like a submersible pump. On the downside, an external pump takes more time and effort to install, they must be camouflaged from view, and they are generally more expensive than submersible pond pumps.

Direct Drive Pumps: Direct Drive Pond Pumps are more common to external pumps as they have the ability to draw water toward them. Direct drive pumps are appropriate for applications which require a significant amount of head height - such as pumping water upslope for a waterfall. They are generally more costly to operate than a magnetic drive pond pump, but in many cases they are the only choice when a substantial amount of water flow is needed. If you are purchasing a submersible direct drive pump, be sure that it is oil free, as leaking oil can harm pond fish and aquatic plants. Magnetic Drive Pumps: Magnetic Dive Pond Pumps (or Mag Drive Pumps) are usually designed as submersible pumps as most are unable to draw water into the pump. The power is created through an electromagnetic field which turns the impeller. Their main benefit is energy efficiency and a longer useful life. In addition, Mag Drive pond pumps are easy to repair as typically all that is needed is a magnetic shaft and impeller (the only moving parts). The downsides are they cannot provide sufficient water flow for high head applications, and they are slightly more expensive than direct drive pond pumps. In general, if you do not have a high head requirement and are looking for a submersible pump, the magnetic drive pond pump is the best choice.

Air Pumps: Air Pond Pumps do not provide any water flow. They draw air into the pump then diffuse it into small bubbles. Air pumps are most commonly used for pond winterization as they provide oxygenation and gas exchange without providing water flow.

Choosing the Right Size Pond Pump

To choose the right size pond pump, first determine the proper application category: 1) Filtration and Recirculation; or 2) Water Features.

Filtration and Recirculation: The general rule of thumb for filtration and recirculation applications is the pump should turn the pond water over a minimum of once every two hours, and ideally once an hour. For example, if your pond is 3,000 gallons the ideal pump size is 3,000 GPH, but not less than 1,500 GPH. My personal preference is to always err on the high end of the range. A pump's flow can always be slightly restricted, but never increased. Also, make sure your pump is the right size for your pond filter's specifications.

Water Features: Choosing the correct pump size for a water feature is a bit more involved. The first step is to determine how much water flow you need at the discharge point of the water feature itself. Let's use a waterfall as an example as this is the most common water feature. For each inch of waterfall width you need 100 to 150 GPH. So, if you have a 14" wide waterfall weir you will need 1,400 GPH to 2,100 GPH of water flow over the lip of the weir.

The next step is to calculate the head height. Head height refers to the approximation of the vertical and horizontal distance the water must travel from the pump to the top of the waterfall. Horizontal distance is calculated at a 10:1 ratio, while vertical distance is calculated at a 1:1 ratio. For example, if the horizontal distance from the pond pump to the waterfall is 30', this equates to 3' of head height. If the vertical distance from the pump to the top of the waterfall is 7', this equates to 7' of head height. Therefore, the total head height for this application is 10'.

The last step is to review the manufacturer's power curve for the type of pump you have selected to determine the appropriate pump size. Let's use the Cal Pump Mag Drive as an example. The PWM3900 model is rated at 4,100 GPH of water flow at the pump discharge, but is rated at 2,280 GPH of water flow at a 10' head height. This would be a good choice for this particular example. Remember, it is always better to err on the high end of the GPH range as this will put less strain on the pump.


How to Choose a Pond Pump

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Sunday, October 16, 2011

TETRA POND WG PUMP 550GPH

!: Save TETRA POND WG PUMP 550GPH sale off

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Post Date : Oct 16, 2011 19:30:42
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POND WATER GARDEN PUMP 550GPH

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Mr Koi Pond Waterfalls installation Austin Texas and surrounding areas

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